NH returns to West End

Happy LEAP Year Thursday February 29th and New Horizon has come full circle after almost five weeks of cruising. The weather is once again turning so our plan is to stay here for at least two nights and then maybe attempt the Abacos. At the moment it looks like it might be too much wind and wave height to head that direction. We will check again tomorrow and also tune into Channel 68 which is the Abacos cruisers net for broadcasting what’s happening on the islands. While reading on the stern of the boat Nana noticed quite the gathering to discover that a lemon and bull shark were circling the area where the boat was tied up. They were not kidding when the notice reads NO Swimming in the Marina! 

Flamingo Bay Resort

New Horizon is back at Grand Bahamas this time at a slip in the Flamingo Bay Resort which is directly opposite where she stayed before at the Grand Bahamas Yacht Club. We have another great cruise with the winds shifting a little mid way but nothing too severe. We arrive at the marina in plenty of time to have lunch and enjoy an afternoon on their private Taino Beach. We will spend a Layday here tomorrow and enjoy their amenities which include pool, beach, spa, tennis, volleyball, bocce, table tennis , jet skis, restaurant and a ferry ride to take us over to Port Lucaya Marketplace. 

Nandad looking very Herculean on the steps of a home with direct beach access. Unfortunately it looks like it might need a little attention. We enjoyed our lunch, the perfect shaded spot under a tiki hut provided some shade in the afternoon sun, a lovely walk on the beach ( which we shared with maybe a handful of people )

a lovely sunset followed by a great meal onboard. Nothing quite like dining alfresco. 
Wednesday 28th another beautiful day in paradise. Nandad takes the ferry across to Port Lucaya while Nana does some laundry and yoga. The afternoon is spent strolling along the magnificent stretch of beach and lounging on the chairs provided. We took the ferry into the marketplace for dinner which was a very pleasant 
ride and had a wonderful dinner at L’Elmo Di Ottone. Although it was very quiet there was a lovely atmosphere and the food was excellent - despite Nandad burning his hand on the very hot pan ( also banged his head when boarding the boat ). 

NH heads to Great Harbour Cay

After a fantastic few day with family Nana and Nandad are ready to move on. Early morning start and ready to leave at 7.30 am, all lines are off, head sets on and lo and behold the throttle won’t go into gear!! Now this is not good. Nandad puts it into reverse and there is no problem but it refuses to go into gear. We had to tie up again, trouble shoot, review the manual , call a friend and then a mechanic. What are the chances of having a mechanic respond same day in the Bahamas ! Before all this Nana knew nothing about throttles but now she knows what a solenoid is, what it does, where it is on the boat and how it operates. Our buddy in Newport - who had worked on this issue in the past - was extremely helpful. The mechanic had a cancellation and arrived on the boat by 10.30 ( by that time Nana and Nandad had done some diagnostics ) and by 11.30 we are on our way. Amazing and certainly the luck of the Irish.

Here is a picture of Atlantis in the background as we head out into the New Providence Channel. We are so excited that we can catch the weather window for our 70 mile trip and Nandad will have to speed up in order to make up for our three hour delay. A beautiful crossing under perfect cruising weather provides us with a magnificent view of the Berry Islands from a different angle. 

As we pass Great and Little Stirrup Cay at the tip of the northern Berrys we are able to catch all three cruise ships. As mentioned before Norwegian Cruise Line owns Great Stirrup Cay so the Epic was anchored right there with its 4288 passengers. Right next door the Royal Caribbean Group lease the other island which they call Coco Bay and right there is the Wonder of the Sea and the Oasis of the Seas. Both these ships carry over 10,000 passengers between them. The island is a playground for adults and kids with floating bars, cabanas, pools, slides, zip lines, air balloon tower, and of course beach club. The Perfect Day is guaranteed.

The entrance into Great Harbour Cay is right around the corner from the cruise ships but a total different world. The cut into the harbor is hidden and would certainly be a challenge in the dark. Once inside it is easy to cruise into the protected Harbour. This spot was likely a hopping place at one time but now it needs a lot of TLC. Our slip assignment is right beside the working locals - who seemed to have every swear word in the vocabulary- it’s noisy and we don’t get a sense that things work too well. The dock hand is very pleasant and the lady in the dock office is also helpful. We decide to take advantage of the free bikes and took a short ride to the beach. Once again a lot of derelict homes, cars etc all around. The settlement is about 900 and there is an airport. In its day I guess the ‘Rat Pack’ used to party here and had their own club which is now in ruins. We will not stay another night as planned and will leave in the morning for the Grand Bahamas.

An incredibly quiet and beautiful spot overlooking the anchorage. You can see the Stirrup Islands in the background.

These are the villas that surround the harbor , some are for rent , others owned by islanders. In the morning the small whalers take out guests and bring them to a fishing lodge that they have nearby. 

Sunday February 25th Atlantis

New Horizon in her perfect spot at Atlantis, she is facing west and looking over at the outdoor theatre. We are ready to depart tomorrow for Great Harbour Cay which is the most northern tip of the Berry Islands. 

Now Nana was unable to get a reservation at the Gospel Brunch however after attending mass at St.Francis Xavier Cathedral today in Nassau there was no need. The mass lasted from 8.30 am to 10.15 am with one of the best choirs on the island. A truly moving experience. Afterwards we drove to The Ocean Club which is at the opposite end of paradise island for brunch so that we could visit the Versailles Gardens.

The Ocean Club is now a four seasons resort and certainly lives up to it description as a chic, contemporary style and classic elegance. We paid $20 to valet park and $110 for breakfast just so we could walk the grounds and visit the gardens which are really magnificent. In 1939 Dr Axel Wenner-Gren , a Swedish industrialist, created a private estate on paradise island which included a large house and the beginnings of intricately landscaped gardens modeled after those at the Chateau de Versailles.

The property has ocean front beach access and exudes peace, relaxation and elegance. You would certainly feel pampered here.

Nandad looking like the lord of the manor. After breakfast we did some quick provisioning , returned to our slip and Nana went to the beach at the Cove for a few hours. The boat is once again ready to get on her way and our plan is to leave early tomorrow for approximately 80 nm cruise.

Laydays at Atlantis

With the Arsenault’s and the Doneski’s no longer at Atlantis Nana and Nandad have an adult night out at the wonderful Cafe Martinique. We decided to rent a car for the next two days so we can explore New Providence by land. Due to weather conditions we have decided to remain here at the Marina until the winds calm down before heading to Great Harbour Cay in the northern Berry Islands. Unfortunately also due to weather we will not make it to Eleuthera on this trip. 

Saturday 24th : we drive over to the west side of the island to take a look from the land side at the area we anchored in West Bay. There is a beach called shark beach however it is not very well maintained and looks a little neglected. We then proceed to make a reservation for lunch at the Captains Table in  Lyford Cay Marina. This is a membership only marina so it was very nice to drive through and take a look at the boats docked in the Marina. The Marina has an actual security gate in the water that will shut down if a boat is entering without permission!! We had a delicious brunch and enjoyed the atmosphere. 

Next we visited the National Art Gallery of the Bahamas which is located at historic Villa Doyle 

We found ourselves in this very decorative area so took a short walk up Cumberland St Hill to the famous Graycliff Hotel , Graycliff Cigar and Chocolate factory.  History has it that the mansion was built by Captain John Howard Graysmith , a famous pirate of the Caribbean. During the American Civil War Graycliff was commandeered as an Officers mess for the West Indian Regiment. It is was purchased in 1973 by Enrico and Anna Maria Garzaroli and has hosted  several celebrities and nobility. 

Nana is admiring the wine bottle tree on display in the lobby. Apparently there are several priceless antiques still decorating the guest rooms and public areas from the time that Lord and Lady Dudley owned the property in 1966. 

We would like to have walked to Queen Elizabeth Staircase however the short cut would have meant walking through the Governors Mansion - which I doubt  we would have made it to the gate without being stopped! When we drove the car to the area there was no parking and it did not seem the safest place to hang around so we returned to the Marina. 

The Doneski’s Arrive

Ready to have playtime with the dolphins. What an amazing experience to participate so close and personal with dolphins that have been rescued during Hurricane Katrina at Dolphin Cay. The dolphins are rewarded with many little fish treats however during our time the four dolphins decided to have their own individual playtime and we were all asked to return to the shoreline and wait until they had finished. It’s difficult to describe Atlantis as a complex it’s so big with multiple pools, hotels, slides, basketball courts, tennis courts, fitness center & spa, casino ( with wonderful Chihuly glass sculptures ) theatre, ballroom, conference area, beaches, lazy river, aquariums , and golf course to total 141 acres with 7500 employees. Something for everybody . 

The Marina village is a hopping spot in the evening with music playing, vendors and shops open for strolling, restaurants filled to capacity and the mega yachts all light up twinkling on the waters edge. A very magical setting especially with a full moon shining in the sky.

We had such a wonderful time with family sharing many experiences and having so much fun. 

Although you can’t see in the picture Nana was in a tube in that glass tunnel watching the sharks swim around - it’s really crazy. 

New Horizon arrives at Atlantis Marina Nassau

Nandad decided to call the Arsenault’s to see if they would like to make the cruise across to Paradise Island. At 11.30 we were ready to cast off and head across to Atlantis Marina. Along the way we approach Rose Island which is a ten mile long ribbon laced with beaches on the north side and a haven for boaters, excursions , and a two mile beach on the east side called Sandy Toes. Athol Island is closer to Paradice Island and is part of a marine reserve mostly covered with rock and scrub vegetation. The approach to Paradise Island ( which was once called Hog ) is relatively easy after passing underneath two bridges the entrance to the marina is right there. We requested to be on the outer area a little further from all the crowds. Wonderful to have the Arsenault’s onboard and so excited to share this amazing wonderland. Likely Nana and Nandad will be busy with family in the next week so the blog mail take second place! 

Maeve slept over and had a wonderful night with all her snuggies.

Sunset over Paradise Island

All the gang for a game of dominoes after dinner while Maeve slept in her bunk.

Cambridge Cay, Compass Cay , Warderick Wells ( Exumas ) and Palm Cay ( Nassau)

Well Nana did not snorkel Thunderbolt Cave but opted instead to have a delicious breakfast at the Sea Level restaurant before heading off - another reason to come back. The Captain and first mate of Liberty , docked behind us, assisted our leaving which was very helpful to both them and us! 

A little history on the Yacht Club which is still the same building that has been renovated and modernized and the cottages have also been restored and some new ones added. 

Our plan for today is to try to get a mooring at Cambridge Cay which is part of the National Parks and if there is not one available we will anchor. The picture below is Staniel Cay as we leave the harbor.

When we arrive at Cambridge Cay all the mooring ball are full so we drop the anchor and have a lovely lunch over on Bell Island . The wind shifts and changes so we decided to get a slip at Compass Cay.

Compass Cay is privately owned  and is considered a nature reserve with many trails and walking paths. Here they have raised nurse shark that they feed from the dock and plenty of bonefish, jacks ( a cousin to the tuns fish) and families of sea ray. No fishing is permitted here and they ask that you separate your food scraps from your trash which they then feed to the fish. This means that there are no rats on the island. We have the pleasure of meeting the owner who is a dedicated Bahamian. If you pull up here in your tender you are asked to pay a fee to walk the trails, use the beach or swim with the sharks. There are four cottages that you can rent here but don't expect air conditioning . There are women's and men's bathrooms, no restaurant, a cool beer from the fridge and burgers and hot dogs when the grill is working!

This island is certainly a special spot that somehow sends you back in time. We did not make the hike to Rachael’s bubble bath but we did walk to the airstrip which is a very long strip of sand that when the tides is out makes you feel you could land an airplane. To plug into electricity was $150 so we decided to open the windows and turn on the fan. We had an excellent dinner onboard thanks to the generator.

Wednesday Happy Valentines Day Nana was able to secure a mooring at Warderick Wells which is again part of the parks and a very popular spot. You are not permitted to enter unless you have a mooring ball secured. It’s a short cruise however just as we left the dock the throttle would not engage so Nandad had to turn on the kicker engine - we were in very close quarters - and just as we were about to return to our slip the throttle engaged. A very nice cruise however as we entered the north mooring field we almost hit shallow ground and had lots of boaters pointing us to the deeper waters. Nana was unable to hear Nandad regarding the mooring ball so lots of confusion! Not our best day for communicating. Finally we secure the mooring which is very close to the whale beach and park headquarters so we went for a ride in the dinghy for the first time. 

You can get an idea of the pattern of the mooring field as that is the entrance in the background with the sailboats in a circle
around the shallow spot! The island is all coral with a few trails outlined by wooden signs , several marked snorkeling areas, beautiful beaches within dinghy ride, and just picture perfect. The headquarters has a small gift shop with lots of educational pamphlets, DVD’s, books and other paraphernalia. Boo-Boo Hill is the highest point of the Cay and there one will find a lopsided monument created by boaters who have left their boat name behind on gathered driftwood. Nana and Nandad did not venture to the hill due to the very spiky and loose coral - we needed some buddies to motivate us ! We had a wonderful evening onboard watching the turtle, sea ray and the activity of the other boaters. There is nothing like the feeling of being secure for the night, a gentle breeze, a gentle rock and the bright moon with Jupiter over head. 

That is the park’s headquarters which has the perfect view of boaters as they approach and they do their best to guide you in ! 

Thursday 15th February NH leaves for Palm Cay on the east side of New Providence . This is approximately 66 nm on the Grand Bank side so we did not expect it to be as rolling and rocky as it was. Lots of sail boats out today looking like they are catching the wind. We arrive into Palm Cay at around 2.30 pm and by the time we filled with diesel it was time to grab a bite to eat at their Pink Octpous which is right on the beach. This is a lovely resort attached to a gated community with pool access, bar, cafe, restaurant, spa and all amenities. The perfect spot to provision for our week on Paradise Island where we will meet the Arsenault’s and the Doneski’s - so excited.

Friday morning after a light breakfast onboard Nana heads to the laundry. It has been a week so three loads were necessary and surprisingly very reasonable here at Palm Cay. While waiting for the dryer Nana rode the stationary bike for 20 minutes which felt good. She did want to visit the Spa however it was closed for maintenance- bummer. Another beautiful day so we relaxed on the beach for a hour or two then borrowed the courtesy car to grocery at Solomons. Nandad has decided to become a member as this is our second visit. While we were busy Tray - one of the dock assistant and a captain in his own right is cleaning the boat so we are feeling quite privileged. He does a wonderful job and at $4 a foot well worth it. After lunch at the Pink Octopus we again retire to the beach for an hour and watch the charter boats return. This marina must have at least 50 catamarans and is the headquarters for both the Moorings and Dream Yacht Charters.

NH after her thorough cleaning. Tomorrow we will leave for Atlantis Marina on Paradise Island to join the family for some fun. We will stay at the marina from Saturday 17th to Saturday 24th.

Staniel Cay Yacht Club

After two wonderful relaxing days and a very noisy night watching the Super Bowl at the Xuma we are ready to move on with our adventure. Now preparing NH for her next cruise is always a rush. The cushions all need to be taken in or they will blow away during the cruise, any loose items have to be secured and put underneath pillows or they will simply smash to the floor, all hatches need to be closed tightly or otherwise the sea water will sink the boat, all the drawers and cabinets need to be closed tightly or else their contents will be splayed all over the boat, the water hose and the electric cord needs to be disconnected. Breakfast is always about checking the weather pattern using windy and verifying that we are looking at the correct day and area! Nana also likes to review the Captain’s route plan with the paper charts - just in case. After all that we are ready to leave.

Our cruise takes us past the ECLSP - Exuma Cay Land And Sea Park - which stretches from Wax Cay Cut in the north to Conch Cut in the South. Nana is now a Support Fleet Member so we can have two complimentary mooring nights within the park. We would like to visit Warderick Wells and maybe Shroud, Hawksbill and Cambridge Cays on our way back to Nassau. NH is cruising on the Great Bahama Bank side. The area on the chart called Tongue of the Ocean is the third largest barrier reef right off the Andros. Coming into Staniel Cay was very challenging and once again Captain Aedan did a great job while Nana kept Watch on the bow for shallow water. It is very busy at the yacht club and on our way in we cruise right by the mega yacht Man of Steel which you can charter for a mere million a week with a crew of 28! 

NH is very nicely tucked into her slip right in front of the classic 1954 Trumpy Cruiser ‘68 Liberty. The classic intricate signature bow scroll of all Trumpy’s right on our stern. 

Our new neighbor today is the very large sea ray cruising around the harbor.

Staniel is the cruising headquarters for the central Exumas. In August the National Bahamas Sunfish Regatta is held here and the local sailors are famous for racing the local  A-Class sloops LADY M and TIDA WAVE. The Thunderbolt Grotto is a spectacular skylit underwater cave featured in several Hollywood films. If it is slack tide before we leave in the morning Nana might persuade herself to snorkel the cave! Staniel Cay Yacht Club rents a variety of villas with an all inclusive package that includes a Boston whaler for daily fun water activity and breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Sea Level restaurant that has two sittings 6.30 and 8 pm. They ring the bell when the kitchen is ready to serve. There is also the Captains Lounge bar which is a funky, fun spot with a pool table , music and great food. The beaches are really beautiful but you will need a golf cart or bicycle to get around. There are mooring balls available and a great dingy area right beside the bar and restaurant.

After washing down the boat and taking a short walk Nana was treated to a beautiful sunset right across from the mooring field. We had a great dinner at the Captain bar, watched the stars and the moon for a while before retiring to our cabin. It feels really good to be back at Staniel Cay on NH.

 

West Bay to Highbourne Cay

What a difference a day makes and the protection by the Exumas Sounds on the East and the Great Bahama Bank on the west. Today’s cruising was such a pleasure leaving West Bay at 9am and arriving into Highbourne Cay at 2pm. The Exuma Cays begin just south of Nassau and extend south to Little Exuma Island, which is close to Long Island. The Exuma chain has a mixture of undeveloped islands, exclusive resorts, private islands, pristine beaches, snorkeling paradise and 22 nm of protected sea park where fishing, lobstering, shelling and conching are all prohibited. Nana and Nandad will cruise this amazing area for the next few days while we wait the arrival of the Arsenault’s and the Doneski’s who we will meet at Paradise Island. 

Highbourne Cay is a 500 acre privately owned cay that offers rental cottages, great anchorage, and a small marina right at the northern end of the Exumas. Once we are secured into our slip we take a stroll to check into the office ( while throwing the line to the dock hand Nana was greeted by a big nurse shark ). On the way there we meet the residential parrot LuAnn. We make a reservation for dinner at the Xuma restaurant , which is literally right on the beach and stroll the docks to admire the many megayachts. 

It is really a beautiful spot surrounded by sandbars, coral, sandy beaches with very cozy chairs and swings to sit on. People arrive on the island by either sea plane, helicopter or private boat. You can rent a golf cart, borrow a bike or simply take a walk and let your senses guide you.

These are the nurse sharks that swim around the marina.They are very big and Nana certainly would not want to swim in the water!

Super Bowl Sunday and we spend a Layday at Highbourne Cay relaxing on the glorious beaches, riding the bikes, watching the megayachts come and go, lunch at Xuma and a special reservation for dinner with front seats for the Super Bowl. The perfect day with the heat of the sun, the gentle breeze from the ocean and the surf of the water. 

Tomorrow we will head for Staniel Cay which is the midway point of the Exumas. Nana and Nandad spent sometime at Staniel two years ago and are so excited to return on New Horizon.

I guess if you were waiting for the bus on Highbourne Cay it could take a lifetime!

NH anchors at West Bay

After a wonderful breakfast of waffle for Nana and poached eggs for Nandad at the Chub Cay clubhouse we check out and head over to the fuel dock. We checked the weather with winds ranging 15 to 17 knots from SSE, waves 2 to 4 feet intervals of 8 we expected a rocky ride for the three hour cruise across the Atlantic and my oh my did we rock and roll! It took all of Nana's concentration to keep the waffles in place - what was I thinking this morning !!! The waves crashed primarily over the port side, the boat rolled like a cork, the chairs on the cockpit moved back and forth, the bicycle on the port side almost came loose and not to mention the crashing heard from down below - we did check to secure things before leaving port but I guess it goes to show there is always something to miss ! The picture is the entrance into Chub Cay taken from our stern as we leave to head out into the open seas.

Here is the Sunset beach again from our stern as we leave. Wonderful sunset every evening.

NH arrives into West Bay New Providence Island and by 2 pm we are secured and the anchor is in place however the rolling continues but gradually improves.We check down below and most of the disruption came from not properly securing the drawers in our cabin so no damage done just clothes etc scattered everywhere. It is a very pretty bay and lots of the boaters that were at Chub Cay are anchoring here before they make their trip down the Exumas. We did try to get a slip at the luxury Albany Marina - which is the resort owned by billionaire Joe Lewis along with Tiger Woods, Ernie Els and Justin Timberlake - only to be rejected as I guess we are not members! Around the northwest end is the other luxury resort Lyford Cay Club Yacht Harbour but this is equally exclusive - by-invitation-only.

We settle in for the night and are rewarded with a lovely sunset and a great star light sky. By this time Nana has had some ginger snaps and ginger ale so is doing much better. We are still rolling but hopefully it is just enough to rock us to sleep. 

The chart below shows West Bay in relation to New Providence Island. Above and below the Bay are the two Marinas that are private with invite only. You can see the lights from the Power Plant on Clifton Point. The Royal Bahamas Defence Force headquarters at Coral Harbour is also a no go zone. Believe it or not the body of water in the Centre of the map is Lake Killarney.